A clutch up wheelie lifts the front by quickly releasing the clutch with the engine slightly revved: a burst of torque hits the rear wheel and the front comes up. It's the go-to technique for slow wheelies and for bikes without much low-down torque. It's more precise than a power wheelie, but more abrupt at first, so build up gradually.
Only practice on private land closed to traffic, wearing full protective gear. Wheelies are illegal on public roads in most countries.
When to use the clutch
- Bikes with little low-down torque: 125s, 300s, singles, most sport bikes.
- For slow, controlled wheelies at 6–12 mph.
- In second gear, where throttle alone often isn't enough.
- For wheelies from very low speed.
If your bike has plenty of torque (mid or big twin-cylinder nakeds), you can also start with a power wheelie.
Step by step
- First gear, low speed: 6–10 mph, seated, right foot covering the rear brake.
- Pull the clutch: you don't need to pull it all the way, just disengage the drive.
- Raise the revs: bring the engine into the midrange. Start low: better a front that barely lifts than one that shoots up.
- Release the clutch quickly while holding the throttle. The front lifts.
- Control it with the throttle: if the front drops, add a touch of throttle; if it rises too much, use the rear brake.
- Set it down: roll off smoothly and let the front come down straight.
- Build up gradually: a few hundred rpm more each time, until the front comes up cleanly.
How many revs, and which gear
There's no single number for every bike: it depends on torque, gearing and weight. The rule is to start low and increase in small steps. In first gear it takes little and the front comes up fast. In second gear you need more revs and a firmer release, but the wheelie is more stable and easier to hold at the balance point.
Clutch up vs power wheelie
| Power wheelie | Clutch up | |
|---|---|---|
| Suitable bikes | Plenty of low-down torque | Almost any |
| Speed | Low to medium | Even very low |
| Feel | Smoother | More abrupt at first |
| Wear | Minimal | Clutch and drivetrain |
| Best for | Beginners on torquey bikes | Control and slow wheelies |
What wears out
- Clutch: repeated releases wear it faster. Keep it properly adjusted.
- Chain and sprockets: they take torque spikes. Keep the chain at the right slack and lubricated.
- Forks and front rim: hard landings stress them, not the clutch.
Dirt bike clutch ups
On a dirt bike the front comes up very easily, and on loose ground the rear wheel can spin, which softens the hit. Use less revs than on tarmac, sit slightly further back and be ready on the rear brake: dirt bikes rotate quickly.
The balance point
The clutch gets the front up; to hold it you need to reach the balance point, where a little throttle is enough. Wheelie Trainer tells you how close you are with beeps, and a steady tone when you're there.
Frequently asked questions
Does clutching up wheelies ruin your clutch?
It wears it faster than normal riding, especially with repeated high-rev releases. With moderate use and a well-adjusted clutch, wear stays reasonable.
Can you clutch up in second gear?
Yes: it takes more revs and a firmer release, but the resulting wheelie is more stable. Get comfortable in first gear first.
Why does the front shoot up and scare me?
Too many revs or a too-abrupt release. Lower the revs, release a little more progressively and always keep your foot on the rear brake.
Train with Wheelie Trainer
Your phone on the handlebar guides you to the balance point with sound. Free for iOS and Android.